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diggThe Retro
Comfort foods are back—in a big way. And they’re better than ever.
By Lisa E. Harrison
Photography by Nat Rea
(page 1 of 2)
Comfort foods are back—in a big way. And they’re better than ever. Circa 1970s staples such as sliders, mac and cheese, and spanakopita make their modern-day debut with gourmet ingredients. Deviled quail eggs are a bite-sized, playful alternative, while oysters Rockefeller are dressed up with apple wood-smoked bacon and local (Sakonnet) crustaceans. And to wash it all down? A gin rickey salutes the past, but the creative—and colorful—addition of fresh dill is decidedly right now.Dill Gin Rickey
3 sprigs fresh dill
1 lime
2 ounces Plymouth gin
2 ounces soda water
fresh cranberries for garnish
Place dill in the bottom of a rocks glass. Slice off two thin peels of lime for garnish. Squeeze juice of entire lime into the glass. Muddle lightly. Add ice and gin, and top with soda water. Give the cocktail a light stir. Garnish with sliced cranberries, lime peel, fresh dill or dill flower.
Deviled Quail Eggs
Makes 12 pieces
12 quail eggs*
water to cover
pinch of salt
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 tablespoon creme fraiche
1 tablespoon white or yellow onion, minced
1 tablespoon sweet pickle relish
2 teaspoons capers, minced
2 teaspoons hot prepared mustard (or Dijon if milder is preferred)
salt and pepper to taste
cracked black pepper, fine chopped herbs or paprika to garnish
Place eggs in a pan with cold water and a pinch of salt. Bring water to a full boil. Turn off heat and cover pan. Leave covered for 8 minutes. Remove eggs from water and cool quickly in ice bath.
Peel the eggs. Cut in half lengthwise and remove the yolk.
In a mixing bowl, combine the yolks with remaining ingredients and season as desired.
Spoon deviled mixture into egg half and place the other half as a “hat” on top.
Sprinkle with black pepper, herbs and/or paprika before serving.
Hereford Beef and Cheddar Sliders
Makes 12 pieces
1 1/4 pound Hereford ground beef*
organic sea salt (Maldon’s) to season
cracked black pepper to season
12 mini sesame seed burger buns*
sharp cheddar (Shelburne or Grafton), cut into 12 2-inch square slices
mayonnaise as needed
ketchup as needed
12 slices white or yellow onion, sliced thin, just the inner rings
12 slices dill pickle
basil and parsley, chiffonade, as needed
Form the ground beef into 12 equal size burgers. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
If desired, toast the buns with a little butter.
In a skillet, sear burgers on each side and top with cheddar slices to melt the cheese.
Build burgers on the buns with remaining ingredients, secure with pick and serve immediately.
Mac and Cheese Baskets
Makes 12 pieces
1/2 pound fresh penne, cooked, drained and cooled
3/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon shallots, minced
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
nutmeg, tiny pinch
1/2 cup pepper jack cheese, grated
1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 cup swiss cheese, grated
1/2 cup asiago cheese, grated
kosher salt and white pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400˚. On Silpat-lined** sheet pan, sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano into small piles about 3 inches apart. Place in the oven and cook until golden brown. Remove from oven and while still warm, mold each cheese tuile into a basket shape. Work quickly; once tuiles cool they will be too brittle to form.
In heavy stock pot, melt butter over low flame. Add shallots and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add flour to make a soft roux. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add heavy cream, whisking to incorporate all the flour and (make sure there are no lumps). Increase flame and bring to a gentle simmer. Add Worcestershire and nutmeg. Slowly whisk in cheese, a little bit at a time so as not to let cheese clump up. Check seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed, then simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. When ready to serve, heat the pasta with cheese sauce and adjust consistency as necessary. Let cool slightly, portion pasta into cheese baskets and serve immediately.
**Non-stick Silpat baking liners are available at most gourmet stores, including Williams-Sonoma.
