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New Rivers

New Rivers has the elusive je ne sais quoi that restaurateurs pay decorators huge sums of money to create: enough intimacy and charm to win over anyone with a stitch of romanticism. (Be forewarned, however, that claustrophobics may want to look elsewhere on a Saturday night.) Its two nook-filled dining areas are painted in dark greens and subtle salmon, filling an already cozy room with added warmth. There’s no hustle and bustle, no dramatic artwork to distract your eye or flashy servers to detract from your food. If there’s someone you’d like to give your undivided attention to, put New Rivers on the top of your list.

The restaurant, once home to the original Al Forno, was opened by Bruce Tillinghast and his late wife, Pat, close to twenty years ago. These days, Bruce still manages his bistro from both the kitchen and the front of the house. The wine list reflects the restaurant’s adventurous spirit, offering more than two hundred affordable bottles from around the world.

There’s a certain dichotomy between the quaint atmosphere and the rather novel menu. Though the food selections are not as extensive as the wine, the menu features locally grown and sourced items as well as a spattering of ingredients that may be unfamiliar to you, bringing a deserved international authority to the cuisine. The only issue is that the complexity of the dishes can occasionally supersede the execution.

Appetizers include seared scallops with marigold beurre blanc, arugula and a julienne of watermelon radish, which is pink in color but more mild than its market cousins. Colors and textures enhance the dish, but the scallops are under-seared. Simpler fare, such as home-made gnocchi, exemplifies both the familiar and exotic characteristics of the restaurant. This version is mixed with rosemary, which imparts a fresh herb flavor to the delicate dough. Baked with two cheeses and served with a side of pomegranate-glazed scorzanera (Italian salsify), it’s one of the finest examples of New Rivers’ cooking.

The best entrees incorporate esoteric ingredients seamlessly into traditional comfort food. New Rivers’ riff on steak au poivre is a loin of venison crusted in juniper, served atop a bed of mildly bitter greens and offset by candied turnips and a maple jus: steak and potatoes for those with a discerning palate. Barbecued salmon, on the other hand, is too nouveau. While the crispy-skinned salmon is complemented by sweet-and-sour cucumber vinaigrette, the accompanying soba noodle cake has no integrity, falling into strands with the first bite. The side of Asian pear would have more purpose if roasted for sweetness and texture.

Happily, desserts (made by pastry chef Christine Cote) elevate every meal. The signature lemon tart consists of warm curd cradled in a buttery tart shell, a perfect combination of acidic sweetness. Even the cookie plate, at six dollars, delivers more than expected. The Lilliputian-sized treats are a superlative version of homestyle basics: delicate shortbread, spicy ginger, sandwich cookies with a dab of peanut butter cream, palmiers and a decadent bite of sugar-crusted chocolate. It’s an ideal way to finish a meal in a setting that can’t be topped if you’re looking for a quiet evening together.

New Rivers -
7 Steeple Street, 751-0350, www.newriversrestaurant.com
Years In Business: 17
Chef: Bruce Tillinghast;
Beau Vestal, Chef de Cuisine
Cuisine: French-inspired American
Dinner for Two: $150
Get: Salads, gnocchi, meats and chops, dessert.
Don’t get: Dishes that prioritize creativity over taste.