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A Side of Fresh Air

22 scenic spots for outdoor dining and drinking.

A Side of Fresh Air

Photography Nat Rea

(page 1 of 3)

We can’t explain it. For some reason, food just tastes better when you eat it outside (especially if it’s seventy-five degrees and not too humid). In Rhode Island, the al fresco dining season is super short, but the options—from a tucked-away two-top in a city courtyard to a perch that scopes the sea—are surprisingly varied. So go ahead, book a table at one of these top al fresco eateries (the state’s best) and explore the great outdoors.

Spiced Pear

117 Memorial Boulevard, Newport, 847-2244, spicedpear.com

Menu: Lobster club sandwich, a plethora of salads, esoteric pizzas and the burger that made them famous: a combination of Kobe ground beef and pulled brisket topped with caramelized red onion tomato jam. Crispy sweet potato fries speak to your rustic side while chocolate hazelnut pyramids with gold-leaf-tinged sugar sculptures serve the culinary ego.
 
Scene: Privileged. As good as it looks from the outside, it gets even better from the interior. There’s a good chance that you’ll get the impulse to propose to someone so send out only select invitations.

View: You might find a better one (and we’ve got a bridge to sell you). A stone terrazzo that sits a hundred feet above the Atlantic personifies all that Jay Gatsby embodied. There’s plenty of shade from the sun and rain, and you can view the start of Newport’s famed Cliff Walk. Used mainly for lunch as ocean breezes make even summer evenings chilly.

Cost: Be prepared to spend a Franklin on lunch for two. The lobster club tops the list at nearly $30 and even a basic salad will run you about $15.

Get: No doubt, the burger. Desserts are mandatory for anyone with a sweet tooth or an eye for the aesthetically dramatic.

Fine Print: Past summer deals have included twenty-five-cent martinis (don’t get too excited—there’s a two-per-person limit), which may allow you to forget that you’ve just eaten a $30 hamburger.


Citron Wine Bar & Bistro
5 Memorial Boulevard, Providence, 621-9463, citronri.com

Menu: Various regional influences (pappardelle Bolognese to hoisin-roasted duck) share space with creative combinations of excess, like guilt-inducing sides of asparagus fries and gorgonzola tater tots. Plus, there’s an extensive list of wines available by the flight, glass or bottle.

Scene: Trendy young things pop in for a bite on the weekend, while on WaterFire nights and weekdays, it’s a decidedly more diverse crowd of diners enjoying the urban setting.

View: The passing action of Union Station Plaza is only an arm’s length away, which provides enough visual intrigue that you’ll hardly notice the surrounding areas (restaurants and a parking lot) hold little appeal.

Cost: Dinner here will set you back less than at some of John Elkhay’s other ventures (10 Prime Steak & Sushi and Chinese Laundry among them), depending on what you’re craving. Entrees range in price from $17 for a baked penne with sausage to $35 for a twelve-ounce New York sirloin; fresh-fruit cocktails are $8.

Get: The appetizers are where the restaurant’s playful spirit really shines. Try the peking duck potstickers, Kobe beef carpaccio, pulled pork sliders and pretzel-crusted chicken nuggets, and don’t leave without wolfing down the white chocolate bread pudding for dessert.

Fine print: Former snack bar COCO has been transformed into an outdoor cocktail bar adjacent to the dining area. Also, Citron offers an al fresco doggy menu, which means your favorite pooch can cool off chair-side with a “pup-cicle” or chow down on a hormone- and antibiotic-free grilled steak.


Al Forno
577 South Main Street, Providence, 273-9760, alforno.com

Menu: The restaurant responsible for bringing northern Italian food mainstream fills its pages with pastas, pizzas, salads and grilled meats. The only thing more famous than their wood-grilled pizzas are the built-for-two desserts that they make to order. Request them at the beginning of the meal so that your coconut ice cream is semi-solid by the time you finish your entree.

Scene: Tuscan countryside meets city courtyard: proof that restaurants can be both laid-back and elitist.

View: You may be near the water but you’re not really watching it. Al Forno’s outdoor space is more about looking in than out (you won’t even notice that the DOT’s Iway build is inching along a few hundred yards away). If Providence has an escape clause, it’s spelled out in this space built from brick and tile.

Cost: Regulars often spend their money on appetizers and pasta, which are still light enough for summer, and wine. You’ll spend about $40 per person for a light dinner and drink or about $75 for everything, including dessert.

Get: Pizza rules anytime, any day, any way, though it’s the one topped with grilled corn that makes us swoon in the summer. Who can resist the blueberry tart sitting in a pool of creme anglaise either? It’s made to share but all too easily devoured by one.

Fine Print: Known for one of the city’s most formidable Italian wine programs, Al Forno has a list chock full of boutique labels that support smaller regions, more esoteric varietals and even Italy’s premier female vintners. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations for average-sized parties, so expect to enjoy a drink or two before you’re shown your table.


The Boat House
227 Schooner Drive, Tiverton, 624-6300, boathousetiverton.com

Menu: With catch of the day steps away, local seafood is the draw. Start with an appetizer of Point Judith calamari or Sakonnet oysters dipped in cocktail sauce and apple cider mignonette.

Scene: The teak bar, floor to ceiling windows overlooking Mount Hope Bay, sepia-toned nautical prints and rustic wooden paddles make the Boat House feel like a non-exclusive yacht club—a perfect setting for Bloody Mary Sundays.

View: Relax outside in rattan chairs or Adirondacks, watching fishermen on the pier and yachts bobbing in the bay. The restaurant started as a tented pavilion open from late spring to early fall, so al fresco dining was its genesis.

Cost: Easier to stomach (think $5 to $12 for appetizers, $20 to $24 for entrees) than sister restaurants Castle Hill and the Mooring, in Newport, especially during peak season.

Get: Seafood: seared scallops, fish and chips, baked stuffed shrimp, crab cake roll. For local liquid, accompany your fish with a glass of Sakonnet vidal blanc or estate chardonnay.

Fine print: So long as space is available, you can moor your boat at the nearby pier. Reservations now accepted year-round for any party size. If you don’t have one on warm weekends, prepare to wait. Sunday (and Saturday) brunch is a must for the sun-soaked view alone.


Café Nuovo
One Citizens Plaza, Providence, 421-2525, cafenuovo.com

Menu: International but accessible. Crab cakes are made for diehard New Englanders, but there’s plenty of European and Asian influences as well, from the Szechuan surf and turf with tempura vegetables to the sole meuniere and mojito-tinged yellowfin tuna. Caesar salads and good old-fashioned steaks appeal to those who like a culinary safety net.

Scene: Urban oasis. Sheltered (guests dine under sturdy orange umbrellas) with a tinge of self-satisfaction (watch the WaterFire strollers look on with envy as you find a respite from the humidity with a sparkling cocktail).

View: The ever-evolving Downcity skyline, and the Providence River in all its weekend WaterFire glory or weeknight, uh, splendor? You’re close enough to the crowd to shake hands (just ask Buddy), but still feel worlds away from the high-octane scene.

Cost: You might be able to squeeze lunch in for $25 (no more than one drink!) but a revelry-filled dinner will set you back $75 a head.

Get: Follow your preferences: steak for Mr. Midwestern, ale-braised short-ribs for the rustic eater or shaved fennel and strawberry salad for the vegetarian. Bold desserts are always worth splitting.

Fine Print: Reserve your WaterFire perch as soon as the schedule comes out. We’re surprised we haven’t seen seats on eBay yet.


India
1060 Hope Street, Providence, 421-2600; 520 Main Street, Warren, 245-4500,  indiarestaurant.com

Menu: Traditionalists be warned: This is Indian for the modern American crowd. Naan pizza is topped with pesto, and chicken tikka kabobs with mango dressing. The kitchen still handles classic breads and curries as well for those who haven’t quite accepted fusion cuisine.

Scene: Bamboo gardens, fountains, candles and hanging fabric create a Zen-like setting that attracts all ages and party sizes; the wooden-backed swing seats suspended from trellises offer the young-at-heart a playful way to belly up to the table. Saturday nights in Warren draw a decent crowd, thanks to the live folk and jazz bands— and, um, belly dancing.

View: On the East Side, the courtyard’s tucked behind the restaurant, shielded from all that’s happening on Hope Street. In Warren, it’s quite the opposite; Main Street provides a colorful backdrop, though thanks to the step-down design of the seventy-five-seat patio, the horn honking isn’t overwhelming.

Cost: Twenty dollars is top of the line here so you can easily manage a dinner a deux for less than $50. Bear in mind that as the heat rises, it becomes very difficult to pass on the chilled mango colada with cream of coconut. Hedonism comes at a cost.

Get: Our favorites still sing more of India than New England. The multi-flavored naan basket soaks up any curry, and the grilled platters (particularly the vegetable) remain appetizing even in oppressive heat. It’s still too disconcerting to order lemoncello cake or baklava for dessert (where are we?) but it’s okay; we’re happy with a bowl of shahi kheer, the reliable, all-season Indian rice pudding.

Fine Print: India offers half-price appetizers at the bar from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., and a Sunday buffet brunch. Henna tattoo artists are on hand inking free (washable) tattoos on weekend nights.


Spring House Hotel
52 Spring Street, Old Harbor, Block Island, 466-5844, springhousehotel.com

Menu:
The seafood bases are covered here in fresh and able fashion (think mussels, crab cakes, littlenecks, calamari and grilled fish), along with heavier fare such as grilled Wagyu skirt steak and organic Statler chicken. The more casual lunch menu features wood-fired pizzas and a range of greens with add-ons like grilled ahi tuna or local lobster salad.

Scene: Teva and linen-wearing Connecticut WASPs bump wrought-iron chairs with deeply tanned, bejeweled Federal Hill emigres in a setting that’s laid back but grand. Owner Frank DiBiase, who also runs Providence Prime and the Providence Oyster Bar, brings some city flair to the operation.

View: The justly famous wrap-around porch of this Victorian beauty overlooks a small pond, the island’s Old Harbor and, mostly, the Atlantic. At night, the lights of Newport’s bridges twinkle across Block Island Sound as the ocean breeze steals unattended cocktail napkins. Take a deep breath.

Cost: Not bad by high-end Block Island standards, which means kind of pricey to the rest of us. Salads start at $7, entrees at $27, but expect to get into the thirties for filet, swordfish or anything lobster.

Get: With an eye to the walk back down the hill into town, it’s best to keep it light. Share seafood apps or pizza and salad at lunch, and go for the roasted halibut with mussels and littlenecks in a tomato bouill- abaisse at dinner.

Fine Print:
Lunch is available on the porch, but at dinner, it’s cocktails only while waiting for a table in the formal dining room. If you’re bent on dining outdoors, head to the back patio, where you’ll want a light jacket on all but the sultriest August night.


Trattoria Simpatico
13 Narragansett Avenue, Jamestown, 423-3731, trattoriasimpatico.com

Menu: Though the Trattoria is only a rock’s throw from the bay, their rather large menu is well-rounded: equal parts seafood, pasta and chops. There’s also a more casual cafe menu that sates with burgers, grilled pizza and a lobster roll.

Scene: Many of the thirty-plus crowd look as if they just stepped off the boat, er, yacht. And indeed some have. Bermuda short-clad tourists are elbow to elbow with locals (you’ll see them making the rounds catching up with neighbors) at this comfortably relaxed eatery.

View: If Martha were to design a restaurant, this would be it—flora, fauna, twinkling lights, white linen and fabric everywhere. Even those lacking a green thumb can appreciate the serious hours that went into creating this magical, private garden oasis. A few tables even boast a distant water view; others offer a glimpse of passing Jamestown foot traffic.

Cost: It’s not cheap, but it’s not bank-shattering, either. We’ll call it average (especially considering it’s a resort town). Most entrees fall in the twenties, though pastas can be had for less, and lamb tops the charts at $39.

Get: The menu changes seasonally, but summer calls for roasted littlenecks with corn, bucatini tossed with crab, and assorted crustaceans from the raw bar. To wash it all down? The mojitos come highly recommended.

Fine Print: Call ahead for a reservation as the al fresco area, which seats about fifty, fills up first (and fast) in the summer; they take them for any size party. Light rain is no match for the Trattoria’s awnings; even if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate, no worries, you’ll stay dry. Live jazz entertains five times a week under the prize of the garden, a 275-year-old copper beech tree.


Up River Café
37 Main Street, Westerly, 348-9700,  www.theuprivercafe.nettheuprivercafe.net

Menu: Runs the gamut from European picnic fare (raclette, meatloaf sandwiches with Lingonberry relish, duck prosciutto) to more formal international dishes such as applewood bacon-wrapped pork loin with Medjool date glaze. Drinks are plentiful, either on their 100-plus-bottle wine list or their signature cocktail menu.

Scene:
Rustic abode meets river view (a.k.a. the best seat in town). For those who like scenery that’s slightly less aggressive than an ocean view and an attitude that’s infinitely less pretentious.

View: The mighty Pawcatuck River, which is both more impressive and soothing than you might think. Given that the patio faces little else other than the water, you might be able to trick yourself into thinking you made it here on foot rather than on gas.

Cost:
Budget about $30 a person if you can manage to hold yourself to just one drink. More likely, you’ll top out at three and the bill will hover around $60.

Get: Manly men and women alike will love burgers and sandwiches with a pint of cold beer. For the more refined crowd, the small-plates menu offers raclette with cornichons, yellowfin tuna tacos and crispy eggplant sticks to complement your raspberry bellini-tini. Drinks are not only tasty but an excellent way to stretch your seat with a view until sunset (or sun up).

Fine Print: It’s a haul from nearly anywhere except northern Connecticut. Do not plan on doing shots all night and making it back to Providence without a layover.


Waterman Grille
Four Richmond Square, Providence, 521-9229, watermangrille.com

Menu: A New American mix of both formal and casual fare. Small plates are particularly good—and perfect for leisurely outdoor noshing.

Scene: This will be Waterman’s “coming out” season—the first full summer with outside seating, so it remains to be seen who will be attracted to its pretty patio. Our guess? Just about everyone. There isn’t a surplus of fresh air dining options in Providence, particularly ones with a view, which makes this an appealing option for anyone who’s craving some sun. That said, this is no clam shack. No shirt, no shoes, no service.

View: A big view of the Seekonk River and crews sculling on it; an ocean panorama it’s not, but it’s definitely the most scenic al fresco option in Providence.

Cost: The small-plates concept allows you to sample and still keep costs in check ($3.25 to $14.95). If you go the entree route, many fall in the low- to mid-twenties range, but you’ll need to spare a five-spot for sides like mac and cheese or grilled asparagus.

Get: The Waterman Sliders: three mini-hamburgers topped with aged cheddar and pickles; anything grilled (’tis the season after all, plus the restaurant boasts a custom-made hardwood-fired broiler).

Fine Print: The 100 percent renewable energy-powered restaurant will help assuage some of the guilt you’ve been feeling about all the air conditioning you’ve been blasting. Even without the view, summer’s the best time to go because Waterman Grille is dedicated to using local purveyors, so when the weather’s warm, this means lots of just-picked produce.


Waterplace
1 Finance Way, Providence, 272-1040,  waterplaceri.com

Menu: Classic American with a twist. Think take-home-sized portions of kicked-up-a-notch comfort food: pumpkin ravioli, cheddar and mushroom meatloaf and carne asada grilled pizza. Twist on Angell Chef Angie Armenise moved (along with many of her favorite dishes) to Waterplace when the Pinelli Marra group took over the restaurant in 2007.

Scene: Break out the bling—the large, open lower patio is ideal for strutting your stuff (and, in turn, people watching), while the rooftop deck, with a slightly cheaper menu, grills and blenders whipping up frozen daiquiris, is geared more toward the kid-toting, flip-flop crowd.

View: Both of the restaurant’s two large outdoor dining decks (one on the roof and another downstairs off the main dining room) have prime views of the city skyline and—as the restaurant’s name indicates—Waterplace Park. It’s one of the best places to scope WaterFire, so be sure to make a reservation for a patio table in advance.

Cost: Relatively reasonable, especially considering the high-rent location, though still pricier than Pinelli Marra’s suburban outposts. Apps range from $7 to $12, while entrees run $12 to $28.

Get: Make the most of the prime spot by lingering over glasses of wine while sharing finger foods like grilled pizza and appetizers. Those who desire a lounge-like vibe can sip on one of the thirty-plus specialty cocktails while reclining on the plush lounge chairs surrounding the river basin.

Fine Print:
The layout of the building can be confusing for the uninitiated: From street-level, you must venture downstairs to reach the main dining room. Savvy diners opt for the free valet, as the restaurant’s somewhat awkward downtown location makes finding your own parking nearly impossible.
 

Z Bar & Grill
244 Wickenden Street, Providence, 831-1566

Menu: Local watering hole meets American bistro at this popular neighborhood haunt. The menu is super standard— Caesar salad, crab cakes, margherita pizza, and meatloaf. Desserts—tiramisu, chocolate mousse torte—are equally familiar. 

Scene: If happy hour were legal in our fair state, this would be the place to hang for the twenty-something to forty-plus crowd. The thirsty after-work throng can usually be convinced, sans arm twisting, to pair their dirty martinis with calamari or a burger—especially if one of the two outdoor built-in booths is vacant.

View:
The fenced-in brick courtyard nestled behind the restaurant provides refuge from Wickenden’s student-heavy traffic. Umbrellas, potted trees, flowers galore and tables topped with white linen and bistro paper, give the space, which holds about fifty, a cozy European sensibility. 

Cost: Z Bar aims to be the type of place your wallet can handle nightly, even during an economic downturn. Apps and salads are in the single digits, and 90 percent of the entrees top out in the teens.

Get:
Pasta is a sure bet (lobster ravioli, penne with broccoli and chicken) and so is the burger with boursin.

Fine Print: Z Bar is open for lunch and dinner seven days. It’s sometimes tricky to get someone to pick up the phone here (and the voice mailbox is often full), so take your chances with availability.
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 - July, 2008

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